[Tweeters] Tanzania and Uganda, 508 species

[Gary A Kelsberg]

 Tanzania and Uganda 508 species
Five of us spent the first three weeks of February touring Tanzania and Uganda with Cisticola Tours and encountered a wide variety of birds (508 species), mammals (35+ species), plants, and several reptiles. We began with eight days in the “northern loop” in Tanzania, visiting Arusha National Park, proceding to the Lark Plains, Tarangire NP, Lake Manyara NP, the Ngorongoro Highlands and Crater NP, Ndutu Swamp, and on into Serengeti NP. Each park had its particular attractions, with Black and White Colobus Monkeys in Arusha, the critically endangered Beesley’s Lark on the plains (accompanied by Masai guides), rolling hills dotted with baobab trees and elephants in Tarangire, spectacular scenery and the “big five” mammals in Ngorongoro Crater, and millions of wildebeests and zebras (literally) calving on the “endless” Serengeti plains before beginning their migration north towards Masai Mara in Kenya. The herds were followed by so many lions that we gave up stopping to look at them. They were everywhere, in the tall grass, under clumps of bushes, up on rocky kopjes, up in acacia trees, even up in a cactus tree. There were also leopards and cheetahs that came within iPhone range of our LandCruiser, plus hyenas and jackals. After Serengeti we drove back to Arusha and flew to Entebbe to begin our eleven days of Uganda, starting with boat tours of Mabamba Swamp (Shoebill stork and Little Jacana) and Lake Mburo (African Finfoot, hippos, and many species of kingfisher). We then drove to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (however did we get in?) for a day of trekking to see a family of Mountain Gorillas and more than half of the endemic forest species. Our next destination was Queen Elizabeth NP for more savannah and desert birds and mammals. We finished up in Kibale NP (eight species of primates including Red Colobus, Red-tailed, L’Hoest’s, Vervet Monkeys, and Gray-cheeked Mangabey) with a successful search for the Green-breasted Pitta, which we chose to seek instead of trekking to see chimpanzees (the more popular option), plus a hike through Sebitoli Swamp.
Our birding guides were superb, with much keener eyes than ours, extremely knowledgeable about more than a thousand species of birds, and very patient with us. Our drivers were safe and also excellent with birds, mammals, plants, geology, and culture. We birded from the LandCruiser in areas with lions and on foot where it was possible. The roads between cities were generally paved, however there were a lot of dirt roads which gave us an “African massage” (vibrations and jolting from the rough surfaces). Most of our nights were in pleasant ecolodges in beautiful settings with excellent food (lots of fruit, vegetables, and chicken and fish options). They all had hot showers and at least some internet access, usually only in the main area. Almost everyone we met spoke English and we were treated warmly, welcomed with hot towels and glasses of juice. We all took tablets for malaria prevention (Malarone) but we saw few insects when we weren’t near the animal herds (also herds of flies). I never was bitten, except by a couple of ants. We observed heightened security in both countries, evidence of a strong desire to protect tourists. It meant that armed guards accompanied us on our forest walks (slightly disconcerting at first, but they were friendly and helpful). The temperatures ranged from about 60 degrees F in the night and morning up to the low 90’s. Except in the Serengeti area we did not see crowds, although we commonly saw other tourist vehicles. I heard that summer attracts many more tourists. Overall, it was a fantastic trip, and all of us highly recommend Cisticola Tours for East Africa safari trips. They do general tours in addition to catering to birders. The five of us (from three Seattle Master Birder classes) have traveled well together on multiple occasions so we knew that we would do fine with extended time in close quarters and sometimes uncomfortable conditions (heat, dust, bumpy roads). The standard safari vehicles hold six clients plus a guide and driver. I hope this post is useful for anyone considering a birding tour in the area!

Gary Kelsberg
Seattle
Kelsberg At U Dot Washington Dot Edu
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